Mezzanine: box seat price without the view

My wife and I met long time friends of ours, another couple, at Mezzanine just recently. The restaurant boasts of being a spot for “localvores,” those wishing to patronize the flora and fauna produced by local farms. Interesting concept.

Located in Carytown barely west of Watergrill, Mezzanine is a large establishment for its location. Seating is available up and downstairs, as well as a small patio; with the former encompassing the largest area. An aesthetically pleasing bar capable of seating at least 10-15 sits downstairs, just beyond the reach of the front door drafts. Unfortunately, our party wasn’t lucky enough to enjoy indoor seating as our reservations were made much later than other smarter, faster, and most likely more familiar patrons. So, as made clear to us over the phone, we were seated at the last available table on the seasonally enclosed patio, joining three other hypothermic groups who I’m sure were also promised they’re dining experience was going to be “just as warm as it would be indoors.”

Our pleasant host delivered menus and water, followed shortly thereafter by our equally enjoyable and timely server bearing a sesame cracker basket. Our group ordered a $30 bottle of syrah, (amongst the cheapest on the list) a round of salads, ($5/per) and an appetizer: the Fried Green Tomato Stack with Fresh Lump Crab Meat ($10). The wine and salads were as good as could be expected; nothing special, and as I’m a sucker for fried green tomatoes and crab meat, the appetizer was of course delicious. But not worth the price. Essentially, you’re paying $2.50 per conservatively sized tomato slice, and one stretched ounce of crab.

Having not had enough wine, I could feel my legs beginning to chill. We asked for a bottle of chardonnay for dinner ($26).

For an entrée I ordered the Seafood Jambalaya with Roasted Quail ($23), my wife chose the Halibut with Mushroom Risotto ($23). Our friends dined on the Roasted Chicken with Celery Puree ($18), and the Strip Steak ($27).

HOW WAS IT?

The rice in my sensibly portioned jambalaya was nicely al dente, flavored evenly with the seafood stock it was cooked in. An ample amount of shrimp was mixed in with the rice, as well as three large whole crayfish. I appreciated the whole crawdads for making the entrée visually appealing and authentic, but having to get my hands unnecessarily dirty to eat them was off-putting. The menu made no mention that the moderately pepper-seasoned roasted quail was stuffed with sausage, rather than having the sausage mixed in with the rice. This took away from the taste of the quail, but added to the flavor of the sausage; even trade I guess. The dish was nothing to write home about. I understand the irony in that statement, please refrain from further mention of it. My wife’s large portion of James River/Bering Sea halibut was flaky and light; cooked to perfection. The mushroom risotto was creamy and al dente, full of mushrooms and complimented by the same seafood stock my jambalaya rice was most likely cooked in. Nice dish for the price; the only one. The roasted chicken was paramount to KFC, though certainly this isn’t saying much. However the celery puree accompanying it was delicious; creamy and firm, with a mild taste of celery—reminding me of Old Bay upon initial contact with my palate, followed by a savory hint of oyster before heading down the tube. The 10 ounce strip steak was cooked to a proper mid-rare, but lacked a bold grill flavor. It was overpriced, and could have been made better a-la-me, at home.

All told, the four of us spent just under $200 and went away with sated appetites, but empty wallets. And for me, numb legs under the knee.

MY RECOMMENDATION:

The food here is decent, but for the price, not a good first choice. This is another typical Richmond restaurant trying not to border on pretentious to the mature crowd, while maintaining a flighty enough image to keep standard college aged patrons away. If you choose to give it a try, be sure to call for reservations at least several days in advance. If no seats are available indoors, choose somewhere else to dine that night. The patio is freezing, don’t believe otherwise. One small space heater does little for the small enclosure when the outside temps are below freezing. I’m not in a hurry to venture back. For more information visit: http://www.mezzanine3433.com/.

Thanks for reading--Jahnman