The Battle Hmmm...of The Republic

In celebration of the smoking ban, my wife and I decided to venture out into the supposed smoke-free River City for some fresh air at a new establishment, The Republic. According to the restaurant’s website, The Republic has a “pledge to keep your stomach full while not emptying your wallet.” Additionally, the business boasts of its Virginia Green initiative; saying its use of biodegradable and recycled materials as well as the use of solar energy to at least partially power the restaurant, places it at number one in all of the environmentally friendly Richmond eateries. We went for drinks and food, but the Virginia Green effort was nice to know.

The newly renovated building located at 2350 West Broad St., has two entrances; something we were unaware of as we entered The Republic through the main front door leading directly into the smoking section. After walking through a fog of cigarette and cigar smoke, our hostess led us to an interior partition door; separating the two sections as per new state regulations. The non-smoking dining room/lounge is considerably smaller than its carcinogenic counterpart. A polished wooden bar capable of seating at least 15 sits at the wall separating the two sections; running from the kitchen at one side, almost to the non-smoking outside entrance at the opposite. Complete with two inlaid flat screen televisions surrounded by wooden liquor and wine shelves, the bar’s appearance is neat and professional. Less than ten small tables line the perimeter of the room extending from the front windows down the length of the bar to the kitchen doors. Parties of more than four could be accommodated by moving tables together if need be. A single independent high-top table fit snuggly into an alcove, just steps from the interior partition door. This is where we dined.

Our server greeted us almost immediately and notified us of happy hour drink specials without being asked. If you’re able to make it to The Republic before 7pm on a weekday, you’ll find the drink prices to be amongst the best in the city. Single highballs are poured more like doubles and run $3 for the rail selection. All wine and draft beer is $2 off per glass. Also, unbeknownst to us until receiving the bill, appetizers are discounted at this time as well. Our drink orders were returned to us promptly.

The Republic’s menu is diverse in its brevity, maybe too much so. Influences from Asia, Latin and North America, Italy, and even the Balkans can be found in the restaurant’s offerings. Initially we went with the Pierogies with Roasted Garlic Marinara to start, but were told the supply had already been depleted—or possibly never produced. So, we settled on the Pork Empanadas with Chili and Honey Sauce ($6.95) instead. The empanadas came out looking overly brown and debatably homemade. Though the menu never suggested the dish was produced on site, its quality could have benefitted from the concept. The shell was very dry and contained a mild hint of freezer burn. The pork inside tasted like something made for sandwiches at a state fair instead of pork produced with Latin ingredients. The chili and honey sauce contained the distinct flavor of a highly recognizable store-bought Asian chicken wing sauce that combined the essence of plastic and corn syrup. Essentially the dish is a Latin (in theory) pastry covering an American piece of pork that is intended to be dipped in an Asian sauce. Too bad the pierogies weren’t in stock.

For dinner my wife ordered the Grilled Tuna Steak over Mushroom Risotto with Lemon Beurre Blanc ($18.95), and I, the New York Strip ($18.95), medium-rare, with macaroni and cheese and a side salad as my two allotted side dishes. The salad did not precede the entrees as expected and in fact, my meat, starch, and salad were all disconcertingly served on the same plate. The presentation of my wife’s food was much better. The small, yet satisfying tuna steak was cut in half and carefully laid atop the equally proportioned creamy mushroom risotto.

HOW WAS IT?

The fish was indeed seared as it was ordered, yet did not have a great deal of seasoned flavor to it. The risotto however did incorporate a good deal of mushroom zest, and was cooked to a favorable consistency. The portion of the dish might not have been enough to satisfy my appetite, but I need to lose a few lb’s anyways. My ten-ounce steak had the texture of a medium-rare strip, but was light grey colored throughout; it was as if the protein had been marinated overnight in water. The taste of the meat coincided with the appearance—very bland, not even encompassing the natural flavor a steak from the store would have, were it unseasoned and cooked at home. At least the mac and cheese was al dente and creamy, and tasted like a dish made in-house; when it wasn’t infiltrated by the blue cheese covering the salad adjacent to the pasta. The tuna might be worth ordering again, while the steak was truly forgettable.

The service throughout the night was good for a single waitress who seemed to be in charge of the entire non-smoking room. Our drinks were refilled in a timely fashion, while politeness and professionalism were exuded. Also of note was the vigilant hostess who maintained a sharp eye on the non-smoking section through the glass partition door, while leaving no one waiting at her stand in the smoking section. Nice work.

All told, The Republic was and is an excellent spot for an intimate date, or even group happy hour gathering, in both the smoking and non-smoking sections of the restaurant due to affordable prices that rival anywhere in all of Richmond City. You’ll not wait long on drinks either. However, the food is lacking in flavor and presentation. For a business that boasts a “pledge to keep your stomach full while not emptying your wallet”, my wife and I spent just over $70, including tip, for two rounds of happy hour priced drinks, an appetizer, and overpriced entrees.

MY RECOMMENDATION:

For now, stay for drinks and make dinner reservations elsewhere. Also, don’t sit at the solo high-top nearest the partition door. My wife and I went home smelling like we’d sat in the smoking section due to all the traffic going to and from the rooms—away from the door you’ll be fine. The Republic does deserve another chance though, so look for its (possible) redemption review in an upcoming blog. For more information on The Republic visit http://www.therepublicrva.com/.

Thanks for reading--Jahnman